Quebec City was one of those places I always meant to visit while I lived in NYC. It was just a short flight away, had easy access to Montreal via train, and was frequently described by friends who had been there as “lovely” and “magical.” The problem was, I’d always forget to actually book a trip when the time came around.

As the universe would have it, I ended up visiting Quebec after I moved to back to California. My boyfriend and I booked a post-Christmas trip with three days in Quebec to start, and another three days in Montreal to spend New Year’s Eve with friends.

Despite the time change and crazy flight delays (way to go, winter storms), our short stay in Quebec was a travel unicorn: effortlessly magical, luxurious yet affordable, and laid-back enough that we didn’t mind hitting snooze a few times on snowy mornings.

If you’re based on the east coast, as I used to be, take this as a PSA that Quebec is less than a two-hour flight away. Even in summer and fall, I’m sure it has its own brand of natural magic (and it does, if the weird travel video I saw in the bathroom of Aux Anciens Canadiens restaurant is correct).

Have a long weekend to spare? Here are four must-hits while you’re in town (and the one thing you should skip). Thanks to the European architecture and Quebec French language, you’ll feel like you’ve hopped across the pond to an even more foreign land.

STAY
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Auberge Saint-Antoine

At the recommendation of friends, we booked a room at Auberge Saint-Antoine, an upscale boutique hotel that turned out to be a luxurious oasis after our unexpectedly long day of travel. We arrived to soft jazz music playing in our room, which had a snow-filled balcony overlooking the Musée de la Civilisation (in the background of the photo above) and a residential courtyard. Since we arrived so late, we opted for room service – which turned out to be a stellar idea, as it came from the same kitchen that serves Panache, one of the top restaurants in town, which happens to be downstairs. If you can get a reservation there, do it. In fact, you’ll need to call ahead to get a table at most good restaurants in Quebec, so get your Rolodex ready. 8 Rue Saint-Antoine, Québec, QC G1K 4C9 (map)

STROLL
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Vieux-Québec 

As you may have noticed from any other photos you’ve ever seen of Quebec City, Vieux-Québec (a.k.a. Old Town) is one of the primary draws. Yes, it’s touristy, but then again, most of central Quebec City is packed with out-of-towners during the holiday season. That’s because it’s charming AF that time of year – a real-life snow globe filled with twinkling lights and holly-decked storefronts. Don’t miss the Funiculaire du Vieux Québec, a glass-front lift that glides up the hill from the Old Town to the iconic Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, which we’ll get to in a moment. It’s a quick ride, but the views are built for Instagram Stories. Vieux-Québec (map); Funiculaire du Vieux Québec (map)

FEAST
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Restaurant Légende

Across town, tucked underneath the unassuming boutique Hotel des Coutellier – a friendly option, by the way, if Auberge Saint-Antoine is out of your price range – you’ll find some of the most inventive dishes you’ve ever put your fork to. With a strong focus on indigenous seasonal ingredients, Légende takes familiar flavors and flips them into something eye-opening and new – from a sea buckthorn-infused Old Fashioned cocktail to mushroom-infused ice cream that’s shaped like actual mushrooms and topped with candied lichen. We visited Légende twice, once for cocktails and again for a full dinner, and sat both times at the bar and had a fully satisfying experience. It’s also pretty affordable, given the fresh, seasonal menu and quality service. (Pro tip: If you want an even more unique experience, call ahead to reserve the table that’s surrounded by a cluster of large branches. I’m not entirely sure what was behind the design decision, but it’s definitely on the awesome end of the hygge spectrum.) 255 Rue Saint-Paul, Québec, QC G1K 3W5 (map)

SIP
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Fairmont Le Château Frontenac

Everyone will tell you to go to Quebec’s grandest hotel, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, so I’m not forging any new ground here. But I will tell you that it’s totally okay to not stay there (see the Saint-Antoine, above) and instead, just pop in for late-night drinks. The lobby is a bit underwhelming given the sheer size of the building (low coffered ceilings and mediocre decor don’t help), but the two bars and restaurant are well-designed spots where you can rest your touristing feet and throw back an artisanal cocktail or two. If you can, arrive early or call ahead to reserve a seat near the window – you’ll get a pretty sweet view. During Christmas, local businesses decorate trees that line the lobby corridor and there’s complimentary hot cocoa and cider to sip as you stroll – exactly what you need to defrost your hands from the cold. 1 Rue des Carrières, Québec, QC G1R 4P5 (map)

SKIP
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Aux Anciens Canadiens

If you Google “best restaurants in Quebec City,” this spot will undoubtedly come to the top of the queue. I understand how the Internet works and that this is likely a paid placement, but it popped up in several guides (including Travel+Leisure!) and my own uncle recommended it, so we decided to give it a go. While the “traditional” multi-course dinner was not the worst meal I’ve ever had, the preparation and presentation strangely reminded me of the meals I’d had as a child at the Blue Lagoon restaurant at the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland. I’m not sure what has changed since my uncle’s visit, but it was too much food, not enough quality, at too high of a price. However, you find yourself in the area, I’d say pop your head in to see the building for its historical value – it was built in 1675 and was, at one time, one of the grandest homes in the city – or even to catch a glimpse of the servers’ laced-up bodices (very on-trend right now). But skip the lackluster poutine if you know what’s good for you. 34 Rue Saint Louis, Québec, QC G1R 4P3 (map)

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Words and travel photography: Larkin Clark
Photos of Larkin: Rob Brockett 

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